Cut a replacement piece of wood

Posted in Wrestling Forums by meishengchao at 11:24, May 14 2015

2. If access is possible and the tongue is loose or broken, tape the underside of the seams. 3. Force thickened epoxy403 or 406 (mayonnaise consistency) as thoroughly into the seams as possible. This mixture, forced with a 5" wide putty knife, can flow about the tongue and groove joint and into the underside seam, thereby achieving a complete bond of the mating planks. 5.2 Lapstrake Planked Hulls Lapstrake (or clinker), like carvel planking, is composed of a single layer of planks thin enough to bend to the shape of the hull. However, each plank (or strake) overlaps the face of the preceding plank rather than butting the edge of it. Wooden lapstrake hulls often have trouble with the lap fasteners working seams open, causing leaks. The most successful repair is to clean out the lapped seams and bond the planks together with epoxy. It will be very helpful to work on your boat upside down if it is small enough to turn over.

Repair lapstrake hulls as follows: 1. Remove all paint or old finish on the outside of the hull.Scrape the old paint and caulk out of all the seams. Use a custom scraping tool to clean out and abrade the plank mating surfaces down to bare wood (Figure 5-. 2. Cut a replacement piece of wood for the opening and a piece for a backing plate (Figure 5-7). A backing plate will be required behind each butt joint unless the joint falls on a frame. When the repair section falls between frames, the backing plate should run from frame to frame. When replacing longer sections of planking, a backing plate is only required at the ends.Wet out all mating surfaces with resin/hardener mixture. 4. Apply thickened epoxy/403 or 406 (peanut butter consistency) to the mating surfaces (including the surface of the backing plate facing the plank). 5. Install the backing plate(s) to the back of the planking. Temporarily clamp the backer in position with screws, staples or nails. 6. Install the new plank section. Clamp the section in position with screws, staples or nails. Fill remaining openings in seams with thickened epoxy.

7. Remove clamps and fair the surface after the epoxy has cured thoroughly. 5.1.5 Double Planking Repairs to double planked boats involve removing the outer layer of planking, repairing the inner layer following the procedures already described in Section 5.1, and then reinstalling or if necessary, replacing the outer layer of planks. 6. Clamp the scarfed section in place with temporary screws or staples until the epoxy has cured. Corrosion-resistant screws can be left in if the pilot holes were wet out with epoxy. 7. Remove clamps and fair the surface after the epoxy has cured thoroughly. Butt joint method The butt joint is an alternative to the scarf joint for repairing damaged planks in place. Although not as strong as the scarf, it is considerably easier to do. Butt joints should be staggered (adjacent planks should not end at the same place). To repair a damaged plank section using butt joints: 1. Remove the damaged portion of the plank using a circular saw, hand saw, saber saw or chisel.